How to build a spud gun SureShot kit (SIK-20)
SIK-20 Standard Ignition Instructions
These instructions are designed to help you build a simple but effective spud gun (potato gun).
1. These instructions or procedures are provided as is.
There is no guarantee that this device will work as well or better as I have experienced, intent, or describe its operation. In other words, results may vary and may even be very undesirable results, possibly resulting in personal injury or property damage. Please review the disclaimer site for more information.
2. The text and the statements / nomenclature pertaining to the construction and operation of this potato launcher intended as to help ensure such an attempt to do this has a basic understanding of equipment and materials involved. If some of the statements seem 'Greek' to you or you does not recognize some symbols or phrases, which is totally my intention, and you should get help from a trusted source or not proceed at all.
3. These instructions are intended for a beginner or someone who has never built a spudgun before. The procedure described below is not necessarily the same method or another constructor spudgun experience uses. These instructions will help guide you in building a "sound" piece of launching hardware. As you gain experience, you can find that different things can work better for you .... but start simple. Thanks, and happy spudding!
Note that PVC pipe / fittings are not approved by the manufacturer to be used for the purpose of constructing spudguns.
Step 1: Getting spud material to build weapons (gun potato)
This list of building materials is a very simple starting pitcher potato model, with the intention to get the most out of your investment (So to speak). By no means is this the only way to build a launcher, or nearly the coolest, but still able to provide hours of fun. In addition, be sure to get pressure rated parts for building your spud gun . ABS or not recommend the type of nucleus pipe and fittings, these are not the nominal pressure and risk conditions.
MATERIALS:
Get the following:
1. 12 "4" SCH40 PVC pressure rated water pipe (camera body)
2. 48 "2" SCH40 PVC pipe rated pressure of water (material barrel)
3. 4 "PVC coupling
4. 4 "x 2" PVC bushing (if not available to combine two, like 4x3 and 3x2)
5. 4 "PVC FPT adapter (adapter cleaning)
6. 4 "MPT PVC threaded plug
7. PVC primer, one with dye in it, if possible (purple, blue)
8. cement for PVC pipes, medium body is best
The rest is composed of our SIK-201 kit.
Equipment / tools:
Suggested tools for building the launcher of potato
1. Wood saw (or saw for cutting pipe, maybe you and must be cut in the shop)
2. Strippers
3. Ring Terminal Crimper (curling iron to work)
4. 3 / 16 "Allen wrench
5. 7 / 16 wrench
6. Drill and ½ "drill
7. Medium half round file for shaping tube (or a lathe, if you have one)
8. Drop cloth clear PVC cement (disposable)
Step 2: Preparation of materials for assembly
To ensure everything together properly and smoothly, proper conditioning and size of materials is necessary. Pay special attention to the shape of the ends of the tube since this is a major factor in proper solvent welding with the fittings.
Gauge PVC PIPE
Cut the two pipes to size, 4 "diameter cut 12" long and 2 "in diameter. Cut 48" long with the saw unless it did in the store. The use of the file, remove sharp edges on the inside and outside of the pipe. Curvatures inside helps reduce the amount of potato scud that can build up in the launcher, and breaking the outside corner of ensures proper solvent welding, if not done can result in leakage paths. Cut ends should be as square as possible. For the final 1 1 / 2 "pipe suggested that the inside be chamfered about 0.020 "and the exterior was made or refused to meet almost inside the corner, creating a knife blunt to help size the potato.
PVC Accessories
Inspect the installation of weld lines or possible bad large imbalances that can cause premature failure. Remove all paper labels or labels by peeling, scraping, even using a bit of cleaning the adhesive primer past. File off any sharp spurs that may hinder their ability to grip firmly when mounting accessories.
Step 3: Mounting the gun spud launcher
Assembly Room I:
Prime both ends of the tube 4 ", loaded too 4 sleeve ", two 4" connectors, coupling and 4 "female slip fit adapter. Do not put any primer on the threads of the adapter! Immediately apply pipe cement to the three primed 4 "fittings, then liberally to both ends of the tube 4." Start both at the coupling and hardware in the pipe, start the bushing into the rod, then right to the assembly with the threads up, pressing together with body weight while turning around 1 / 2 turn. Hold this position for at least 30 seconds. The pipe ends should bottom each about 1 1 / 2 "in the mounting base. If both no background or apply more force in some way immediately for, or else we're screwed and have to pull - to start with that. If the fittings and pipes are properly conditioned this should not be a problem. Clean up spilled glue with the rag, but leave a strip or external piping / accessories line. If you have any adhesive on the threads to get out of there as fast as possible! Any glue on your hands should only be allowed to dry and then peel it off. Using solvent to remove only increase your exposure to it.
II Barrel Assembly:
First one end barrel and 2 "on the hub. If one end of the barrel was chamfered to a knife, the main square" regular "end of the pipe. Apply glue freely into the pipe, and the press as a whole, again using a motion quarter back down. Hold for 30 + seconds. After releasing the unit upright for several minutes out, to let the glue set a little more. Solvent welding is more of a cure for a drying process. Solvent is lost, hence the term drying, but the action of solvent effectively cures all those individual plastic pieces in a continuous physical piece of plastic joined. Done properly, solvent welds are always stronger than bulk pipe.
At this point, and the security wait at least 24 hours to THE GLUE heal completely and the solvent is dissipated.
If you are planning to paint your gun barrel spigot, now is a good time
III install the electrodes
The SIK-20 kit includes two sets of electrodes for use size as the link is placed on the pipe. Most back of the pipe and coupling is 2 "and recommends focus electrodes in the area of overlap, 180 degrees opposite. Once you have marked the center electrode will have to drill ½ "holes centered on the marks and exactly opposite each other. At this point the tip will touch. (Once the terminals are connected to the nuts and bolts tightened the well will expand and increase the distance between electrodes ... See section V)
IV Joint handle
Push the handle end of the aluminum tube to their seats to the bottom. Connect modular interface MRS-201 Series ring and handle assembly with the four ¼ -20 x 5 / 8 "socket head screws. Check the alignment on a flat surface. Place ring arcs in a barrel near where the barrel and meet. Connect with soft top and rings (4) nuts ¼ -20 x 7 / 8 "screws hollow square
In turn, BOTH SIDES OF THE PLIERS TO TIGHTEN opponents have SPACNG EQUAL BETWEEN THEM. PLEASE DO NOT FORCE. Excessive pressure, can fracture the PVC. Press with the small side of the allen wrench ADUEQATE PROVIDE PAR.
V Lighter / lead / electrode connection
Insert the assembly of the electrode through holes pre-drilled ½ ". Insert the red button on the handle through a guide hole through cables and the side facing the camera. Size cables, remove the insulation, slide the heat shrink, terminals double slide heat shrink to insulate to the terminal and connecting cables. heat shrink tubing connection using a lighter or hair dryer. Lighter screw terminal electrode in this order: washing machine - Terminal - nut and tighten. The set of electrodes and the nuts will expand in the hole and provide an airtight seal, tighten up to ¼ "threads are above nut.
CAUTION - Before you check the electrode gap is empty MAKE HOUSE OF GLUE / PRIMER VAPORS.
With open chamber and from a distance, look to check the spark jumps between the electrodes. His breakthrough should be about 1 / 8 to 3 / 16 "and produce a bright spark. If the electrodes are very close to throwing out and file / grind the ends slightly to increase the gap. Once consistent spark is the day to add the electrode covers (plastic cover metal tip). Align the threaded end of the electrode and tap.
Step 4: Use the launcher
1. Now that spark that is verified, test fit the threaded plug into the adapter. Must engage the threads at LEAST TWO TURNS. Otherwise, check the wires and crap, if of course, obtain a 60deg triangle diamond file, and the size of the cap a little. The wires are at an angle of 60deg, so careful filing. In general, the presentation of the first few threads is ok.
2. With the lid, load a potato! With the camera on the ground, place a potato in the mouth of the gun of spud launcher, and press with your palm, shaving excess, creating a cylindrical potato plug. Make sure contacts the wall firmly potato whole, or does not fire or not so well. Loading the potato sideways is acceptable, because it creates a projectile more stable anyway. Spur potato to within 2 "of the barrel chamber, with a smaller diameter pipe of PVC or broom handle. Do not push too far or fall on the camera ... and only be subject to a short baking cycle.
3. With the spud firmly seated in the chamber, lift the pitcher and holding with one hand without 1-2 seconds of Static Guard ™ (hair spray works well) directly into the camera. Do not use too much, but just make a mess. Quickly close screw cap hand tight, do not use a wrench to adjust to two turns or you'll never get it out again.
4. Call out "Fire in the hole!" The point of the launcher in a safe direction and press the ignition button. That potato crashed there should come a very fast pace with an important report, and depending on where it is proposed and at what angle you pointed, it went anywhere from 6 inches to ~ 200 meters from the muzzle. Pretty cool. If you clicked the lighter and sometimes did not work, you are not alone, check out my next section.
5. If the spud gun worked, great! Remove the cover (this may require a tool), vent the spent gases to get a new charge of air, and repeat as necessary!
Troubleshooting your spud gun cannon
There are many reasons why your launcher prop weapon may not be working. First NEVER remove the cap and start clicking away at the lighter. Again, this has led human fires and chemical thermal hair removal thing again ....
Hairspray in cold weather just is not right. Much of the consumable material condenses aerosol in the chamber walls, which is very difficult to burn. You might consider a lighter, hotter fuel (propane. ...)
For "Deactivate" a misfire you need to take off the cap, while pointing in a safe direction. Allow the camera to the air for several minutes, perhaps Moreover, to obtain the fuel load out. After you are sure the fuel has been vented, again check for spark by simply turning the camera enough so you can see where the spark should be. Never point the camera was directly in the face or body, or anybody. If sparks, then it is a fuel mixture problem.
One of the most common fuel problems leading to misfire fuel is too! It is not usually a problem with the hairspray and other fuels richer nations can be overloaded above its UEL value, and will not work. Always try less fuel rather than more fuel.
If you have not can get it to work I invite you to visit the websites of many others who talk about how to troubleshoot your combustion launcher. Spudfiles.com is an excellent resource.
About the Author
Sureshot Inc. / www.ultimatespudgun.com
What are the disadvantages of holding a knife beside a gun while aiming?
This is what I mean Can http://www.metalgearsolid.us/obrazki/artykuly/914828_20040331_screen097.jpg see how the knife was pressed on the handle of the gun? Is this fact or recoil in the target anyway?
Well, he is conducting style 1911 .45 automatic. Not the most difficult weapon back out there. He holds the knife with two fingers is smaller and probably thumb, the two upper fingers are trying to maintain their strong grip on the firearm. This is not the best way to hang the knife or gun. I suspect that unless to practice this particular grip much you would either drop the knife or gun approached the support of the grip during recoil. This looks like one of those martial arts macho pose that looks cool but has little practical value. Why is he holding the knife in the first place? Most knife best I can pull a sheet like a belt sheath damn fast. Because it has a grip to support the poor, I suspect his accuracy suffers enough. Hmmmm, such this is why he has the knife? If I was going to celebrate anything, it would be a replacement clip.
